- Order a soil analysis to identify nutritional deficiencies and pH problems.
- Select a grass species well-suited to your climate and the sunniness of your yard.
- Loosen soil using an aerator or rototiller, then add a compost and fertilizer mixture.
- Keep the top inch (25.4 mm) of soil moist until the grass is 3 inches (76.2 mm) tall.
Conduct a soil test.
Solve the mystery of your lawn problems with a soil analysis. Collect dirt samples from 10-12 areas of your lawn. A lab can then check pH and nutrient levels to determine why your yard isn't thriving. They'll let you know which nutrients need a boost so you can choose the right fertilizer mix for your soil and prevent future problems. You can buy a soil testing kit from Amazon or a home improvement store and mail the sample off for analysis. These kits will set you back approximately $30 USD. Alternatively, you can take your sample to your friendly local testing center. County Extension Offices offer soil testing services for area residents. Prices are typically between $10-$20 USD. Some states will even test your soil free of charge. Thanks, North Carolina, Connecticut, and Arkansas!
Research grass seed.
Consider relevant factors when selecting a grass species. What is your climate like? How shady is your lawn? How do you use your yard? For example, if you like to practice soccer footwork on your lawn, you'll need a traffic-tolerant species like Kentucky bluegrass. Chat up an employee at a local lawn and garden center for advice on which grasses grow best in your area. Opt for a perennial species rather than an annual one–reseeding your lawn every year is the worst! Clear your calendar according to planting guidelines. Plant cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass in spring or late fall when temps are around 60°F (15.5°C). Plant warm-season grasses like Zoysia in early summer. Remember to factor in germination time during the planning stage. Perennial ryegrass takes only 5-10 days to sprout, while Zoysia takes 21-30 days to germinate. Weigh the pros and cons of the species you're considering. For example, Zoysia has a thick, dense turf, but that also makes it difficult to mow. Perennial ryegrass is traffic tolerant but not drought tolerant.
Measure your lawn and purchase seed.
Calculate the area of your lawn so you know how much seed to buy. Measure the length and width of your lawn in feet and multiply those 2 numbers to calculate the area. Divide the area by 1,000 to figure out how many bags of seed to purchase. Make sure you have enough seed on hand before you begin your project. An online grass seed calculator is a helpful tool; it can even calculate in meters and kilograms.
Aerate your lawn.
Loosen hard soil by aerating the dirt. For a scraggly lawn, core aeration may be sufficient to perk up your lawn. Rent an aerator machine to pull out plugs of dirt so grass roots can get the air, water, and nutrients they crave. Wear close-toed shoes and safety goggles when operating equipment, and follow the instructions provided by the rental company.
Till hard-packed dirt.
Create a fresh surface for planting by tilling packed soil. If your yard is in a seriously sad state, it’s best to bring out the big guns: a rototiller that tears up earth 6-10 inches deep. This machine is like a blender for compacted dirt, easily breaking it up and adding essential oxygen back into the soil. Contact the utility company a few days before tilling. They’ll send an agent to mark the buried lines. In the US, dial 811 to reach the national “call-before-you-dig” hotline. It costs around $70 for a half-day rental of a rototiller. Follow all instructions provided by the rental company. Wear safety goggles and sturdy close-toed shoes while using a rototiller. If you have more money than time, you can have truckloads of quality topsoil delivered instead. Order enough to cover the hard-packed dirt with 4-6 inches (.1-.15 m) of screened topsoil. At $20-$40 USD per cubic yard (.91 cubic meter), it's convenient but costly.
Mix in compost and fertilizer.
Remedy soil imbalances by adding compost and nutrients. Your soil test results provide the info you need to choose the best fertilizer for your soil. Mix fertilizer with compost, then spread an inch or two of the compost mixture over the aerated lawn or tilled soil. Next, use the rake to level the surface of the soil. You should get the area prepared beforehand. Till it, add a little compost to get it to kick start. If you know it will rain, you can put the feed in the ground 24 hours before. If you already have some healthy grass on your lawn, it will continue growing up through the thin top layer of compost. Allow the soil to settle for a few hours up to a few days before adding grass seed–nobody likes a lumpy lawn!
Plant the grass seed.
Use a drop spreader to sprinkle the grass seed evenly. Check the directions on the bag to see which setting to use on the drop seed spreader, then fill it with grass seed. Walk slowly and overlap the rows of seed slightly. Then, gently rake to ensure the seed is in contact with the dirt (but avoid burying it; the seed should only be covered by ¼ inch [6.35 mm] of soil at most). You can use a grass spreader. Water it thoroughly afterward.
Water the lawn.
Water the seed thoroughly until the top inch (25.4 mm) of soil is moist. In order for the seed to sprout, the soil has to stay consistently damp (but not muddy). Continue to water at least once a day or as often as needed to keep the seed moist.
Soak the sprouts.
Encourage strong root development by deeply soaking the grass. Once your seedlings have reached a proud height of 3 inches (76.2 mm), reduce your watering schedule to twice weekly while increasing the length of time you water it. You’re aiming for a moist soil depth of 6 inches (.15 meters). Poke a screwdriver in the soil and then pull it out to gauge the depth of the dampened soil.
Mow your lawn.
Wait to cut your new grass until it's 3 inches (76.2 mm) tall. For a healthy lawn, keep warm-season grass species at least 1 inch (25.4 mm) tall, and cool-season grass 2 inches (50.8 mm) tall. Keep the mower blades sharp to avoid damaging your tender sprouts. Leave clippings on the lawn. If your lawnmower has a mulching setting, mow weekly and leave the clippings on the grass. They’re rich in nutrients and make an awesome free fertilizer. However, don’t leave clumps of heavy, wet clippings on the lawn. Rake those up and discard them or the grass beneath may die. That would be a tragedy after all your hard work!
Stay off the grass.
Keep off the grass to protect delicate roots. You can walk on it while watering or mowing, but avoid all other foot traffic until the bare spots are completely filled in with grass.
Fertilize your lawn regularly.
Feed your lawn with a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to keep it vibrant. Use about ½ - 1 pound (.23 kg - .45 kg) of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet (305.8 square meters) of grass. Do this every 8 weeks in the spring, summer, and fall. Use a rotary spreader to evenly spread fertilizer granules across the lawn. To prevent grass from growing in some sections, you can lay down a separation border. You can get a variety of separation borders from the home improvement stores. It can be a plastic or concrete barrier. If you like, you can put a landscaping mat to prevent weeds and grass from growing in that area.
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