How to Use Steam Rollers for Hair

Setting Up the Steamer

Start with dry hair. You can curl your hair just after you washed it, but it needs to be perfectly dry. Steam rollers will work the best on straight hair, but you can try using them to define curly or wavy hair. If you have natural or kinky hair, however, you will need to start with a blow-out. Otherwise, the curls will not have as much definition.

Apply a heat protectant to your hair. Even though steam rollers are much gentler on your hair than regular hot rollers, they still use some heat. Apply your favorite heat protectant evenly throughout your hair. If you need to, use a comb to help distribute it.

Set up the tank. Fill the tank with cool to room-temperature water up to fill line and replace the lid. Set it down on a stable surface and plug it in. Turn the tank on and wait for the steam to form. It will take about 1 minute before you start seeing steam come out of the lid. How much water you use depends on the size of the tank.

Place the first roller into slot on top of the tank. Wait 3 to 5 seconds for it to soak up the steam. Some manufacturers may recommend up to 7 seconds. It's okay if you go over that time, but be aware that it may take longer for your hair to dry.

Using the Rollers

Take a small section of hair from the top of your head. Grab a 1 to 2-inch (2.54 to 5.08-centimeter) wide, horizontal section of hair. If you are using a smaller hair roller, can use a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) section of hair. Then, clip the rest of your hair out of the way before using a roller. If your hair is natural or kinky, take a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) section and smooth your hair with a comb. EXPERT TIP Martha Ellen Mabry Martha Ellen Mabry Hairstylist & Salon Owner Martha Ellen Mabry is a Hairstylist and the founder of Headchop Hair Studio in Brooklyn, New York. Martha Ellen founded Headchop in 2011 and has been providing high-quality hair styling services in New York ever since. In 2023, Martha Ellen expanded her business to include Lil’ Chop, an express version of Headchop focused on quick and easy in-and-out hair styling. In addition to running two businesses, Martha Ellen's specialties include dry cutting, natural curl and texture, extensions, brow microblading, lamination, freckle tattooing, as well as wedding and event styling. Martha Ellen works exclusively with Great Lengths extensions specializing in changes for length, density, and chemical-free color. Martha Ellen Mabry Martha Ellen Mabry Hairstylist & Salon Owner Match roller size to hair sections for defined curls with steam rollers. With steam rollers, pick ones that match how wide and long your hair sections are, especially for short hair. Before you put in the rollers, make sure your hair doesn't have tangles. Using a setting lotion will help the curls or waves last longer. Roll your hair smoothly towards your scalp so the rollers fit snugly against your head. This gives you defined curls or waves.

Wrap your hair around the roller. Place the roller under the strand of hair, about halfway down. Wrap your hair around the roller, finishing off with the ends. Next, roll the roller downwards, towards your scalp.

Place the matching cap onto the steamer for 3 to 5 seconds. This will help make the cap more pliable. It will also help set the style further. Hold the roller in place while you wait for the cap to steam. If your hair is natural or kinky, leave the cap on for 10 seconds.

Place the cap over the roller. This will secure the roller to your head and keep it from moving. You are now ready to move onto the next roller and section of hair.

Continue curling your hair. Work your way from the top of your head towards the nap of your neck, then down the sides. Use neat, even rows. You can use the same size of rollers, or you can play around with different sizes. Be sure to use smaller sections of hair for the smaller rollers. The smaller rollers will give you tighter curls while the larger ones will give you loose waves and lots of volume. For natural or kinky hair, continue to use the largest roller size in the kit. If you use the smaller rollers without blowing out your hair first, your hair may turn out frizzy.

Finishing and Setting the Style

Leave the rollers in your hair for 20 minutes. If you can't wait that long, you can blow dry your hair using a cold setting for about 1 minute. Your hair must be completely dry and cool before you move on, otherwise the curls may come out. Keep in mind that the longer you leave the rollers in, the tighter the curls will be. For natural or kinky hair, let the rollers sit for 2 hours. You can use a hooded dryer for 20 minutes to speed up the process.

Gently remove the rollers. Begin by pulling off the clamp. Unroll your hair to loosen it. Once it is completely loose, you can pull the roller out, and let the strand of hair fall naturally.

Loosen the curls with your fingers. Do not brush or comb your hair. If you do, the curls may come out entirely or turn frizzy. The more you run your fingers through the curls, the fluffier and looser they will turn. This will give your hair more body.

Apply your favorite finishing product. Great choices include shine sprays, serums, and holding sprays. Gently scrunch your curls in an upward motion while applying the product. This will help further define them. Set the style with hairspray, if needed. Apply a shine/smoothing serum to the ends of your hair.

Take care of your curls. Gently comb through them with your fingers to detangle them. Your curls should last a few days as long as your hair does not get wet and it is not too humid outside. If you wash your hair that day, however, the curls will come out. Keep in mind that if you have natural or kinky hair, the curls may not last as long.