The Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 last week had new talent literally bursting at the seams. There were 86 designers - nearly thrice the number seen at the first edition in August 2000. That it is often referred to as the strongest platform for Indian designers is a no-brainer; 175 domestic and 45 international buyers turned up at the show. Our verdict on trends that ruled the runway at the five-day gala:
Crazy hems
It’s time to lengthen your minis and welcome the kneelength. Designers like Nimish Shah, Jatin Varma Komal Sood, Pia Pauro and Pernia Qureshi welcomed sheaths and second-skin midi dresses. The high-low hemline is a big global trend, seen on high-street labels like Zara and Mango, and it translated well on the LFW runway as designers like Anita Dongre and Shivan & Narresh presented easy hems. Shah, who launched his label, Shift, last year, says he was inspired by vintage dresses while on holiday in London. ‘‘Knee-length is elegantly feminine,” he explains.
From the fringe
The fringe was championed by John Galliano and Yves Saint Laurent in earlier collections and at LFW, Jatin Varma, Pia Pauro and new designers like Qureshi, Sandhya Garg, Shradha Murarka and Ninon Palisse of Vizyon celebrated the trend.
Neck deep
It was more about statement neckpieces. Accessory designer Sannam Chopra played it loud with large metallic neckpieces featuring Swarovski. Colour-blocked tassles and leafshaped metallic earring were seen in Pia Pauro’s holiday-inspired collection. Metallic waist belts cinched Swanil Shinde’s gowns, and Krishna Mehta opted for obi belts. Plus, embroidered clutches are in, as seen in Deepika Govind’s collection, and Veev’s, styled by costume designer Aki Narula.
Grape effect
Designers echoed Christopher Kane’s, Prada’s and Marni’s purple obsession (seen in their winter collection). The regal tones were celebrated by Komal Sood, Krishna Mehta, Jatin Varma, Abhishek Dutta and new designers like Shradha Murarka and Ninon Palisse.“Colours like purple, black and midnight blue work for Indian skin tones, unlike pastels which make it boring. Plus, it’s party season,” says Dutta.
Prints on print
Mixed prints are on international runways and Yogesh Chaudhary played it well with Pac Man (1980s video game) printed saris with floral borders. We also loved Deepika Govind’s vibrant sheath dresses, blouses and scarves with car prints. Aartivijay Gupta’s aptly titled collection, I Love Ma Doodle Book, saw saris with geometric prints and quirky blouses. “We usually see prints like flowers and leaves on saris with stupid borders. I wanted to break the monotony and was inspired by my college sketchbook,” says Gupta, a NIFT graduate from Mumbai.
Playing footsie
Androgynous and classic men’s footwear was the toast of the runway. Priyadarshini Rao paired pretty lavender and teal brogues with her indo-western fusion collection. Conservative men’s shoes like leather oxfords and wingtips were used for a severe men’s fashion-inspiredlook by GenNext designer Sneha Arora, and designer Ken Fernes too.
Hair and makeup
Elaborate eyes, strong lips with a nude and natural make-up palette dominated, with most designers letting their clothes do the talking. Bright lips in pop colours like fuschia, red, orange and coral were spotted at shows by designers Pia Pauro, Nishka Lulla and Khushali Ashar. The top knot can be termed as this season’s biggest hair trend. And on Day 3, The Indian Textile Day, the good ol’ bindi ruled the roost with designers like Gaurang, Deepika Govind and Shyamal and Bhumika
Making the cut
The classic men’s shirt and collars were quite popular with designers Sneha Arora and Richa Agarwal. Power or exaggerated shoulders were preferred by Sandhya Garg and Sachdeva, the latter using them cleverly in capes, military-style shoulder lapels and in a long Swarovski embellished jacket.
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