How to Shave a Mustache

Cartridge or Safety Razor

Shampoo and condition your mustache. Beard shampoo and conditioner are preferable, but you can use regular hair shampoo and conditioner too. After you wash your mustache, comb it well with a fine-tooth comb. Washing and combing your mustache will soften the hairs and make them easier to trim.

Trim your mustache. You want to start by trimming the mustache with a pair of clippers or a small pair of scissors. The shorter hair is less likely to catch in the razor, and you’ll also have a clearer view with which to work.

Clean and prep the skin. Whether in the shower or just over the sink, you should clean the skin and then apply heat. If you do not shower, then the best way to apply heat is with a wrung out, warm towel over the mustache for about a minute. The heat both softens the hair and opens the pores, which means a closer shave with less irritation.

Apply a pre-shave oil. Pre-shave oils give you both an extra layer of lubrication and protection against skin irritation when wet shaving. Apply a small amount to the skin around your upper lip that will come in contact with the razor.

Apply a shave gel or soap. Whether you prefer canned shave gels or mixing your own shaving soap in a mug, you need to work it into a creamy lather and apply it to your face. Regardless of which type you use, applying with a shave brush helps exfoliate the skin as well as lifting and softening the hair.

Shave in short strokes with the grain of your mustache. Using a fresh razor that has been heated with warm water, make short strokes in the same direction as the grain of the hair. Since hair does not typically grow at right angles out of a man’s face, you can test the grain direction for your particular mustache by running your fingers over the scruff to find the direction it feels smooth as opposed to prickly. For safety razors, you want to hold the razor at about a 30-degree angle, and you do not want to apply pressure. Simply allow the weight of the razor to slide across the skin with your hand guiding it instead of pulling it. For cartridge razors, keep the plane of the cutting surface parallel with the skin. The close spacing in multi-blade cartridges will likely require rinsing the blade after each short stroke. Stretch your upper lip downward to give yourself a taut, flat shaving surface. Especially if you have a thick mustache and didn’t trim it very short to start, this may take several passes. Be thorough, but also be aware that many passes can lead to more nicks and shaving irritation. Reapply shaving gel or soap as needed.

Rinse face with cold water. A nice cold water rinse when you have finished will soothe the skin and close the pores that you opened with the shower or warm towel.

Apply aftershave. As with an electric shave, you will want to apply an aftershave the complements your specific skin type.

Electric Razor

Start with a trimmer. Most electric shavers are designed to tackle stubble not long, thick facial hair, so you will need to use a beard trimmer to trim away most of the mustache.

Apply a pre-shave product. Apply a pre-shave product to dry skin. These products differ for electric shavers. Instead of pre-shave oils one might use with a cartridge or safety razor, most electric pre-shave products are alcohol based or powders. These products help the hair stand straight up to get a closer shave with less irritation. If you have naturally dry or very sensitive skin, you may prefer pre-shave powders to alcohol-based products.

Pull the skin tight with your free hand. Use your fingers to pull down around the edges of your mouth gently. This makes a nice taut surface over your upper lip for the electric shaver to pass.

Shave according to your shaver’s design. For rotary electric shavers, you’ll use small circular motions to get the best result. For a foil electric shaver, you will use straight strokes. Regardless of the shaver type you use, make slow passes to give each hair plenty of time to pass across the cutting surface. Though discouraged with razor blades, shaving against the grain with an electric shaver can yield the closest shave results since it helps raise the hair.

Apply aftershave. The aftershave product you need depends on your skin type. For people with dry or sensitive skin, they may prefer aftershave balms, whereas those with oily skin will likely opt for an aftershave splash with a toner.

Straight Razor

Trim your mustache. Though a straight razor can cut through the hair regardless of length, it takes much more skill on behalf of the shaver if a full mustache is involved, so begin by trimming the mustache down significantly with a trimmer or a small pair of scissors.

Prep the skin with a warm towel. When using a straight razor, the natural oils of your skin can actually help lubricate the shave, so you may prefer not to wash your face until after shaving. To prep the skin simply wring out a towel after running warm water on in and place it over your mustache for a minute.

Apply pre-shave oil. Like with a safety razor, a small amount of a good pre-shave oil will help provide an extra layer of lubrication to protect again cuts and irritation.

Apply shaving soap. You do not want to use a canned gel with a straight razor. Apply shaving soap with a good brush and work it into a rich lather over your mustache. Brushing against the grain of your mustache will help raise the hair and exfoliate your skin.

Shave in slow strokes with the grain. You want to hold the straight razor at a 30-degree angle with your little finger on the tang—the little curved bit—and your other three fingers on the back of the shank with your thumb on the front of the shank beneath the blade. This will give you the most control and precision with the straight razor. Do not apply pressure. Allow the weight of the blade to do the cutting and use your hand to guide it rather than to apply any pressure. To form a taut surface flatten your lip downward. You can also use your free hand to tilt your nose up slightly, which will additionally tighten the skin on your upper lip. Never under any circumstances use the blade in a sawing motion. If you've never used a straight razor before, consider practicing on a balloon. Apply shaving cream to a balloon and shave it off with the razor. If you pop the balloon, you're applying too much pressure.

Rinse with cold water. As with other wet shave methods, the warm towel or shower to start opens your pores, and a splash of cold water when you’re done helps close them.

Apply aftershave. Apply a small amount of the aftershave of your choice based on your skin type.