How to Wear a Waistcoat

Ensuring the Best Fit

Leave the bottom button unbuttoned. Waistcoats have buttons down the front and you should always button them up, except for the bottom button. Traditionally, the bottom button is left undone and it’s usually considered a fashion faux pas if you wear the vest otherwise. Definitely avoid leaving the rest of the buttons unbuttoned, since this can look sloppy and remove all sense of formality.

Choose a slim-fitting vest that sits close to your torso. Waistcoats are slim-fitting garments and should never be baggy. Make sure yours sits close to your torso and fits perfectly around your shoulders without feeling tight or uncomfortable. Waistcoats with high armholes will typically allow the slimmest fit without restricting your movement. If you can’t find a waistcoat that gives you the ideal fit, consider having one tailored for you.

Tweak the fit slightly by using the adjuster in the back. Waistcoats should be close-fitting, but the buttons and fabric should not be so tight that they pull apart when you move around. If you need to loosen a waistcoat that feels just a bit too snug, use the adjuster in the back to customize the fit slightly. Only use the adjuster to make minor tweaks in fit. If your waistcoat needs more adjustment than that, look for a different size or have your waistcoat tailored.

Go with a vest length that covers the waistband of your trousers. Waistcoats should always be long enough to cover your waist line in the front. The waistband of your trousers needs to be completely concealed and the bottom of your shirt should not be visible at all when your arms are relaxed and at your sides. When you lift your arms up, a little bit of your shirt should peek through at the waist. If it doesn’t, your waistcoat is too long.

Choosing a Color and Style

Choose neutral colors for a classic, versatile look. Waistcoats in shades of gray, black, brown, and blue pair easily with other pieces and tend to look dignified and classy. Dark shades like deep green and burgundy can also work well, depending on what you pair the vest with. Try to avoid bright colors and busy patterns for most formal looks.

Try a tartan or Tattersall waistcoat for a bolder look. Tartan and Tattersall waistcoats feature striking plaid designs in bolder colors like red, navy, and deep green. Always pair plaid waistcoats with solid-colored jackets for a streamlined look that isn’t overwhelming. These waistcoats are traditionally worn for holidays and other formal events in Scotland and England.

Wear a double-breasted waistcoat for the most formal style. When it comes to waistcoats, you can’t get more formal than the double-breasted variety. A double-breasted waistcoat should always be cut proportionally to the jacket you’re wearing it with so that the body of the vest isn’t visible when your coat is buttoned up. Avoid wearing double-breasted waistcoats with informal or country-style fabrics like tweed. If you’re attending a formal event with a strict dress code, the double-breasted waistcoat is the way to go.

Go with a single-breasted waistcoat if your style skews casual. Single-breasted waistcoats are more contemporary-looking than the double-breasted variety and tend to create a laidback vibe that’s easier to style as an everyday option. They also look a little sleeker because they don’t have lapels. Even though single-breasted waistcoats are generally more casual, you can easily dress them up or down. To dress up a single-breasted waistcoat for work or for a formal event, go with a traditional color like navy or gray and look for a sleek fabric. It's usually best to pair the waistcoat with a matching jacket and trousers in formal settings.

Opt for natural fabrics like cotton, wool, and linen for the smartest look. Natural fabrics will be the most comfortable to wear and look classier than synthetic materials like polyester, which tend to look shiny and create more of a waiter vibe. Cotton and wool are considered formal materials, while fabrics like tweed and corduroy tend to look casual. Tweed and corduroy are traditionally worn in the winter and are great for layering. Lightweight fabrics like cotton, linen, and whipcord work great in the summer.

Pairing a Waistcoat with Other Pieces

Wear your waistcoat with a three-piece suit for a traditional, formal look. A waistcoat is generally associated with formal events, and wearing it underneath a jacket with a three-piece suit is the classic and preferred choice. Go with a cotton waistcoat underneath a three-piece suit, which tends to look the most formal and creates the slimmest silhouette. Avoid mixing and matching colors when wearing a waistcoat with a three-piece suit. Go with matching pieces that are black, navy, or gray.

Pair the waistcoat with a slim-fitting, button-down dress shirt with a collar. Avoid round-necked shirts and go with a dressy collared shirt with long sleeves and buttons down the front. Make sure the dress shirt fits close to your body for a sleek look—if the shirt is too loose, it will look lumpy under your waistcoat and puff out in the wrong places. Tuck your dress shirt neatly into your trousers to avoid ballooning fabric. Never wear a waistcoat with a T-shirt!

Go casual by pairing your waistcoat with jeans. While some consider this to be a major fashion faux pas, it is possible to wear a waistcoat with jeans for a casual, stylish vibe. Go with dark rinse jeans and avoid lighter washes for the best results. It’s also important that your jeans are slim-fitting to pull this look off successfully. Finish the outfit with a pair of penny loafers. If it’s cold outside, wear a peacoat or overcoat with your outfit. Try wearing your waistcoat with denim jeans and an olive green tweed shirt.

Pair bold waistcoats with single-color jackets. If you’re wearing a plaid waistcoat or a waistcoat in a bold color, always opt for a single-color jacket to go on top. If you do decide to be daring and wear a patterned waistcoat with a checked jacket, just make sure the pattern sizes are very different from one another to keep your outfit looking neat.