I am assuming it is from here that my obsession with sandwiches began. The story of the sandwich is quite in the mainstream but I have to quickly get it out of the way. An 18th century English aristocrat John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich, while playing cribbage, a card game, ordered his valet to bring him meat meal on a piece of bread with another piece on top to restrain the meat, so that he could continue playing while eating, without using cutlery and without getting his cards messy. A practice that became common at Lord Sandwich’s abode and then got named after him. More than a century later, my mother tucked anything she could find between two pieces of bread and packed me away to school every morning. I’d eagerly take my break-box with me and try to make sure that no one whacked my sandwiches before break-time. After all, I was a slightly tubby and shy kid prone to getting bullied. That aside, most often my sandwiches would be made with slices of Ham, butter and mustard, often salami or luncheon meat, sometimes corned beef otherwise my favourite boiled eggs with mayo. A little secret. The sandwiches were always wrapped in a moist muslin cloth before being packed in the plastic box, so that they remained soft for a few hours. This was the beginning of an infatuation with sandwiches that turned into a fling, that developed into a love-affair, and then a romance that has become so obsessive, that it is now impossible to resist. I can grab a sandwich for breakfast, lunch or dinner, and will be very content. Whether it is a simple chicken sandwich or a packed multi-tiered “club”.
I think we can categorise sandwiches into two broad factions. Toasted and non-toasted, with the mother of all sandwiches, “The Club Sandwich” at the top of the toasted list. My sandwich haven has always been The Willingdon Club in Mumbai. Under those colonial canopies they hide the secrets of making a great sandwich. Starting with their most basic Chicken Lettuce Mayo Sandwich. Thin slices of bread, with crusts sheared off, slathered with butter, shredded roast chicken, mustard and mayonnaise, cult in long rectangles and piled on top of each other. Candies does them with even softer bread, cut in triangles and garnished with shredded lettuce. The other day, Chef Rohit Sangwan from the Taj Lands End surprised me with a hamper of sandwiches. The ‘chicken’ were as good as the best. Along with that Chef Rohit also parcelled thinly sliced refreshing cucumber sandwiches and innovative jam sandwiches, made with Gujarati chunda instead of jam. What an idea sirji!! The other sandwiches I really like are Plain Green Chutney sandwiches. Candies makes some of the finest as does the canteen counter at the NCPA. Fresh green coriander and mint, will a touch of sugar, just perfect. The next thing that works brilliantly in sandwiches is cheese. Any kind of cheese, from sliced processed cheese to a good gruyere, like in a French Croque Monsieur. Thick, buttered bread stuffed with sliced ham, dijon mustard, and Gruyere cheese. Then grilled in butter on a pan, and then finished with a rich and creamy béchamel sauce poured over the top. It once again put under a broiler until the top gets colour and crispness. You could break an egg on top, which will make the Croque Monsieur into a Croque Madame. Speaking of grilling and cheese, the Bombay Rasta Sandwich is unique and incomparable. We used to make these toasties at home, just put any leftover vegetables, meat curry, eggs, in between two breads and toast them up in a toastie maker. That is why my favourite Bombay Rasta Sandwich is the Masala Cheese. Suka Yellow Alu Sabzi, with cheese, between two beads, toasted on a coal fire till the edges turn crisp and smoky, then eaten with faux tomato ketchup and green chutney, and I am in heaven.
I can go on and on about the other sandwiches I love. Baked Beans cooked with sauteed onions and green chillies with a dash of tobacco and chilli flakes in toasties. I also like a good steak sandwich, sometimes the simpler the better. Thin well-done veal between two toasts, with butter and English mustard. Or a slightly more elaborate Bacon, Boiled Egg, Mayo, Lettuce, Gherkin, Tomato, Pesto Sandwich. Which is a BLT on steroids. All over the world especially in Asia sandwiches come in various forms. Like the Kaya Toast. At a typical Malaysian breakfast along with two half-boiled eggs and tea or coffee, is served the Kaya Toast. Two slices of toasted bread filled with a traditional spread made with sugar, eggs, coconut milk, and pandan flavouring, called Kaya. Or Bahn Mi a popular Vietnamese sandwich influenced by the French Colonisers. I love the Pork Bahn Mi. It’s a short crusty baguette, stuffed with pork tenderloin, hoisin sauce, Asian fish sauce, rolls, honey, and veggies. When hungry on the streets of Singapore, stop at a hawker centre and get yourself a Roti John. French loaf that is sliced lengthwise on the open slices is stuffed a minced meat, onions, vegetables, spices all lightly beaten together with eggs. The bread is then fried top-down, till the topping sets and becomes crispy. It’s unbelievable. And I can go on and on.
I think the sandwich is the greatest food innovation in the world. All you need is bread and imagination.
Kunal Vijayakar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. His YouTube channel is called Khaane Mein Kya Hai. The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not represent the stand of this publication.
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