A nose for the city

BANGALORE: A city is generally known for it famous sights. Some of Bangalore’s localities are known for their unique smells, which not only speak for the people’s habits, customs and lifestyles but also their professions. There is a popular belief in Mumbai that the commuter on the local train alights at his station not by checking the destination board but by recognising its unique smell. Bangalore too has some neighbourhoods, where some smells are dominant.Go past 4th Main Road, Chamarajpet, or some bylanes of Magadi Road and the sweet fragrance of agarbathis fills the air. The famous incense stick brands that emit their fragrances not only in your homes but also those abroad, are rolled on these roads.The main roads of old Bangalore localities like Basavangudi, Jayanagar and Malleswaram emit a unique mixture of smells. With their residents being die hard coffee drinkers, the strong aroma of coffee beans being freshly roasted at the various ‘coffee works’ in these localities waft through the air, making one crave for a cup of the stimulating drink.One just has to follow one’s nose again for the piping hot sip, for, an irresistible combination of scents made up of steaming filter coffee, hot sambar and roasted masala dosa emanates from the kitchens of the restaurants on the road.Further afield, another of Bangalore’s famous establishments beckons with its sweet and spicy aroma.Passersby almost involuntarily stop and shop at Bangalore’s Iyengar’s bakeries, from whose ovens the smell of the soft breads, buns and puffs draw regulars, who include not only citizens of all ages, but a pack of mongrels waiting intently for morsels.The fragrance of champaks, jasmine flowers and coriander bunches from the vendors mingle with the other smells by evening at these old localities. And depending on the season, the Raspuris, Malgoas and the avare kai contribute their odours to the delightful mix.The city may be made up of tech-savvy citizens who swear by Google search for any help. But proof of authenticity is confirmed not by search engines but one’s trustworthy noses, like one Punjabi gentleman on a visit to Bangalore found out.After a fruitless search for a restaurant serving authentic Punjabi food which he had obviously been missing, he suddenly let his nose lead him to a dhabha which was not only below street level and thus hidden from general view, but whose kitchen aromas were outdone by the overpowering stench from the Ulsoor Lake.vijaysimha@ newindianexpress.com