On May 6th, 1856, the steamship General McLeod docked in Calcutta with Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, on board. He had held the Nawab title for almost nine years, following in the footsteps of a long line of Nishapuri kings who had ruled over Awadh. Unfortunately, his reign was cut short by Lord Dalhousie, the Governor General of British India, who removed him from power citing misgovernance as the reason. However, destiny had a different plan in store for the Nawab.
In 1856, the Nawab of Awadh arrived in Calcutta with the hope of regaining his lost kingdom. Little did he know that unexpected events were about to alter the course of his life forever. The Indian Rebellion of 1857 erupted, drawing the British’s attention away from his cause. As a result, Shah was arrested and detained in Fort William for 26 months, shattering his dreams and ambitions.
Following his release, he made the decision to make Metiabruz in Calcutta his new home, setting the stage for a remarkable transformation. Metiabruz, under the auspices of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, evolved into a hub of culture, where chefs, musicians, hakims, and the discerning public congregated to celebrate the artistry of life. In parallel, this rendezvous nurtured an exchange of culinary traditions, bridging the heart of Awadh with the vivacity of Calcutta. It was here that the introduction of potatoes to Kolkata Biryani took place.
It was in the early 16th century when the Portuguese first introduced Indians to a treasure trove of exotic ingredients. Among their culinary gifts were three treasures – potatoes, chillies, and tomatoes. What remained unbeknownst to them was the transformation these foreign treasures would invoke within the realms of Indian cuisine.
The prevailing belief suggests that potatoes found their way into Kolkata Biryani as a cost-effective substitute for meat. As we delve into history, we uncover a different truth, one that dispels the British-fabricated notion aimed at discrediting Indian rulers. This revelation comes from Shahanshah Mirza, the Nawab’s great-great-grandson and a senior GST officer in the Ministry of Finance, who unveils the genuine story behind potatoes’ journey to Kolkata.
The advent of ‘aloo’ (potatoes) to Bengal, facilitated by English traders, was marked by their rarity and exotic nature due to limited cultivation. Within the courts of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in Metiabruz, a culinary visionary ventured to infuse potatoes into the biryani, employing the illustrious dum-pukht method – a culinary technique where the lid is hermetically sealed to ensnare aromas and flavours. The resultant revelation was nothing short of epic. Potatoes, enmeshed within saffron, spices, and the juices of tender meat, became an elixir that heightened the biryani’s exquisite taste and texture.
The confluence between Awadhi and Kolkata Biryani is a compelling narrative in itself. Both variants celebrate the long process of extracting rich Rogan through patient meat frying, creating a sumptuous blend of tastes. The culinary artistry is evident in the careful layering of partially cooked rice and marinated meat. And of course, the use of potatoes, a common feature, adds a unique touch that takes the biryani to heavenly heights.
Kolkata Biryani serves as an ode to the Nawab and his visionary chefs, who endowed us with this culinary marvel. Amidst the purveyors of biryani in Kolkata, Aminia stands as an exemplar of evolution intertwined with tradition. Founded in 1929, Aminia wholeheartedly embraced and commercialised the inclusion of potatoes within biryani – a homage to the visionary culinary ingenuity of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah and his bawarchis. In the words of Azra Asher Ather, Director of Sales at Aminia, “It’s a testament to our commitment to preserving tradition while evolving with the times, ensuring that every plate of our biryani is a journey through history and a celebration of timeless flavours.”
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